Welcome to Cadence of the Sea!

Welcome to Cadence of the Sea, where Jessi and I chronicle various maritime adventures and misadventures while sailing the American West Coast and to the South Pacific.  We were recently on our extended honeymoon cruising in Vava’u, Tonga, but are back in the States and plotting our next moves.  Cadence will be for sale, but if she doesn’t find new owners, I guess we’ll be forced, doubtlessly kicking and screaming, to come back and enjoy some more time sailing in the South Pacific…

Contradictions – A Rant

by Jessi November 13, 2014

My sweet tentacly god, this place is schizophrenic. American Samoa is at once a vibrant and depressed country: where the residents are fiercely proud of their Samoan identity and culture, while also having become one of the biggest welfare states in America. A place where you can get a dental checkup and a filling, along with almost any other routine doctor’s visit for $15 total, but where the local McDonald’s has an “after school special” of a “Baby Mac” for $2 and where there aren’t even any McfreakingSalads for a little bit of roughage to go along with your meat(?) […]

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Tonga Bound!

by Jessi October 31, 2014

I’ve given you a few of my thoughts about life in American Samoa, but I have yet to actually tell you about what the eff we’re doing here. You know, the practical stuff that actually matters. The plan when we got here, Dane 2 months ago and me 1 month ago, was to get the boat ready, sail to Tonga (about 300 miles south), spend a month in Tonga, then sail to New Zealand in November/December so I can start my working holiday visa and Dane can get the boat fixed up and ready to sell. Well, Pago Pago has […]

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The Octopus and the Rat

by Jessi October 28, 2014

  There’s an old Samoan folktale about the Octopus and the Rat. It goes a little something like this: The Rat is on a sinking ship and doesn’t know how to swim. Luckily, the Octopus is propelling by and nobly saves the Rat from certain drowning. As the Rat is ferried to shore atop Octopus’ head, he says “Thanks so much for saving me, I’d be at the bottom of toxic Pago Pago harbor with the rusted car doors and cannery offal if it weren’t for you. I’ve left you a gift on your head to express my sincere gratitude. […]

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A Pre-Emptive Apology

by Jessi October 17, 2014

On the plane from Hawaii to American Samoa, eagerly anticipating seeing Dane for the first time in 3 weeks, I sat next to an American, a petite, friendly woman headed to Pago Pago as part of the local community college accreditation program. She’s a school administrator at a Palo Alto community college (small world), and prior to being an administrator, she taught Spanish. As someone who went out of her way to become an expert in another language, and, one would think, culture, as we spoke throughout the flight, she kept on dropping little gems like “Isn’t it funny how […]

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Pago Pago – One Year Later

by Jessi October 14, 2014

Hi folks! It’s been a little over a week for me, and a little over a month for Dane here in American Samoa this year. Dane came back a little early to make sure Cadence was nice and clean for my arrival.  Luckily, though the boat had an infestation of spiders, and some mold, she was all intact and nothing majorly needed to be fixed.  He had to sleep on a sail for a night before laundry was done and everything was bleached to hell, but he seems fine now, except for those uncontrollable facial tics.   Since I’ve been […]

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